d'Eugenie-Vosne Romanee-1er Cru Les Brulees 2017 (AM92)
Note: from a 1.16 ha parcel of 60+ year old vines, there are two sections, one upper and one lower and this cuvée now uses only the upper portion Producer note: Régisseur Michel Mallard told me that 2018 was quite wet in the spring but hot and dry in the summer so it's good that the spring was so wet because otherwise we could have problems with hydric stress. We began picking with our whites on the 27th of August and continued through to the 30th. We then attacked the reds on the 1st of September and picked through to the 6th. Yields were comfortable but less than what we realized in 2018 with potential alcohols that were also good but not really high at between 13.1 to 13.6%. We used 10% whole clusters for the straight Vosne and between 50 and 75% for the other wines where the vinifications that were once again done with no sulfur additions. As to the wines, what I find so interesting about them is that it would be natural to assume that fruit coming from such a hot and dry vintage would produce exceptionally ripe low acid wines but that isn't really the case. They are in fact quite fresh with very good energy and much better terroir transparency than I imagined they might have. I wouldn't call them classic Burgundies but neither are they like 2003. Mallard noted that the 2017s reviewed below, were bottled between December 2018 and June 2019. Tasting note: An attractively fresh nose offers up notes of ripe red currant, raspberry, dark pinot fruit and pretty spice wisps. There is equally good freshness to the relatively concentrated medium weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the focused, powerful and saline finish that is youthfully austere. This should be very good in time as the underlying material appears to be excellent.