Pavie Macquin 1994 (RP88)
This well-situated estate, with a high percentage of old vines and uncompromising biodynamic viticultural practices, represents a wine that could be called the Chateau Lafleur of St.-Emilion. These are powerful, backward, tannic wines that should be purchased by those with the discipline, patience, and the requisite youthfulness to wait 10-12 years for them to round into shape. Because of their severity, these wines can be admired more than enjoyed, but their impressive old vine core of fruit, and extraordinary purity and ripeness are noteworthy. The dark ruby-colored 1994 reveals a Musigny-like nose of violets, black-cherries, and powdered stone. This tough-textured, tannic, muscular wine exudes personality and character, but it needs 6-8 years of cellaring. It may turn out to be an outstanding wine, but since bottling, the wine has become dominated by its structure and tannin, and is less of a sure thing than I thought last year. While it possesses plenty of personality and richness, it is questionable as to whether this wine will evolve gracefully, or eventually dry out. A tough call. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.