Fabien Coche-Meursault-L Ormeau 2017
Notes of crisp peach, yellow orchard fruits, dried white flowers and oatmeal introduce the 2017 Meursault En l'Ormeau, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy wine that was still quite youthfully tight-knit when I tasted it, its incipiently rich profile tempered by incisive acids. Coche has captured the freshness that this gravel- and alluvium-rich site can lack, so the wine should develop well. Domaine Fabien Coche, which still trades in the United Kingdom under the Coche-Bizouard label, is one of the most underrated sources of high-quality white Burgundy in the Côte de Beaune. Alain Coche took his time, leaving his wines on the lees to mature at a leisurely pace for two winters, and produced classically balanced, textbook Meursault that evolved beautifully in the cellar, today, his son Fabien follows suit, with a few small refinements: today, the Coche harvest takes two weeks, not one, with each parcel brought in at optimal maturity, and there are more larger-format barrels in the cellar alongside the regular Burgundian pièces. These are not stylized, flashy wines, and they aren't as dramatic as some of the region's more sought-after domaines on release, but readers with the patience to cellar them will be amply rewarded.