Arlaud-Chambolle Musigny-1er Cru Les Noirots 2017
Producer note: Cyprien Arlaud, who directs this domaine which owns 15 ha and farms a total of 18 ha (see also the related wines under Cyprien Arlaud immediately below), described 2017 as a vintage that had a growing season that was much easier to manage than 2016 as we didn't have any frost damage or intense mildew attacks. However, it was necessary to control yields and particularly in those vines that suffered frost damage in 2016 as they were especially productive. I don't like doing green harvests as I'm not convinced it's the best method but the fruit set was so large that there wasn't really much choice. So I dropped a lot of fruit in July and then did it again in August for any bunches that were still somewhat green. Despite all of that, we still had yields that averaged around 38 hl/ha! We chose to begin the harvest on the 6th of September and we could pick relatively quickly as the fruit was basically spotless. We obtained good maturity levels as potential alcohols mostly came in between 12 and 13% with solid phenolic maturities as well. The seeds were brown and the skins were reasonably thick, which is to say thicker than those of 2014 if not as thick as those of 2016. I used varying proportions of whole clusters, which is to say around 30% for the upper level wines. I also chose to drop the proportion of new wood and some wines have none at all. Overall, I like the vintage quite a bit as the wines are fresh and should provide for early enjoyment. I have been visiting the domaine for more than 20 years but honestly did not know quite what to make of the Arlaud 2017s. I normally find much to admire here though in 2017 too many of the wines display touches of backend dryness. It's possible that it was just a bad day as that sometimes happens but whatever the reason or reasons, I didn't find the wines to show to expectations.